This is a supplementary training blog. My main blog is here, or you can follow me on twitter

Thursday, 17 December 2009

Week 43

Monday 7 December
Run 2 miles - including intervals along L'brough Rd
Tuesday 8 December
Wednesday 9 December
Thursday 10 December
Climbing @ the wall - lost so much finger strength :(
Friday 11 December
Saturday 12 December
Climbing @ The Works in Sheffield. Good session, did plenty of problems and caught my first proper dyno :)
Sunday 13 December

Friday, 11 December 2009

Week 42

Still convalescing. Allowed to run this week though, so

Thursday 3 December
4 mile run

that's all folks

Friday, 27 November 2009

Week 41

Convalescing, nothing to report.

Week 1 of 4 weeks recovery after laser eye surgery. Next week I'l be allowed back on my bike! Expect biking to take place. Running comes back into the mix the week after.

Am I being driven nuts by inactivity? Not quite, not yet.

Week 40

Monday 16 November
Run after work - try out my new neon pink hi vis vest. Smooth.
Tuesday 17 November
Wednesday 18 November
Climbing at the Wall in Nottingham - surprisingly unmotivated, probably due to impending laser eye surgery & subsequent weeks off that'll be required.
Thursday 19 November
Laser eye surgery - no action for a while.
Friday 20 November
Saturday 21 November
Sunday 22 November

Monday, 16 November 2009

Week 39

Monday 9 November
Short run before work, first ground frost. Took a while to warm up, but was enjoyable.
Tuesday 10 November
Gym after work. What a sweat fest - so many overheating people - morning as so much quieter.
Anyway, had a good work out, 35s on shoulder press and ab curls, 45s on chest press, 7s on free weights and 75 on ab machine. I think that the free weights are in kgs, the rest are in lbs.
Wednesday 11 November
Climb down the wall - did some nice new problems. Grades at the Nottingham wall are so arbritrary there's no point 'claiming' them - they need to sort that out!
Thursday 12 November
Lunchtime run, 3.5 miles. Down the river and back via the canal towpath. Started off too fast & had a stitch half the way round, must pace myself better.
Friday 13 November
Saturday 14 November
Climbing at the Edge, Sheffield with Claire. Led a few 5+s and a 6a, top roped a couple of 6as. Lost my tooth.
Sunday 15 November
Bouldering at Burbage North with Loz & Gareth. Did a few nice slabby problems, but was suffering from lack of interest and achey wrists.

Monday, 9 November 2009

Week 38

Monday 2 November
Run after work - about 4 miles
Tuesday 3 November
Wednesday 4 November
Climb down the wall - repeated a load of nice problems.
Ring training - wide push ups, jackknifes, pull ups
Core - fit ball sit ups, dorsal raises, left and right crunches
Thursday 5 November
Friday 6 November
Driving up to Northumberland after work
Saturday 7 November
Bouldering at Bowden Doors, did the lightbuld (F6a) and my project on scoopy block (F6b)
Happy to get my first F6b!
Did a few quality problems, and tried a few more. Lack of lunch severly affected afternoons power potential - must pay more attention to eating properly in the future.
Sunday 8 November
Rained in the morning, took L for a look round Kyloe in the Woods - just as impressed as I had thought he would be. There was definite dampness in the air, trees holding moisture so we didn't stay and climb. Ended up at Hepburn where I did a few easy problems but my last were suffering a bit from Saturday. Another place to revisit.

Sunday, 1 November 2009

Week 37

Monday 26 October
Rest day

Tuesday 27 October
Gym before work

Wednesday 28 October
Climb @ the wall, nice and quiet, did some good problems

Thursday 29 October
Run before work - 4+ miles

Friday 30 October
Bouldering @ the wall, Fridays are best. Flashed some nice problems, completed a couple of mini projects.

Saturday 31 October
Rest day

Sunday 1 November
Climb @ the Edge, on sighted a 6a, did some nice 5s and 5+s. Tired myself out completly.

Monday, 26 October 2009

Week 36

Monday 19 October
too tired - rest day

Tuesday 20 October
Run - 3-4 miles, first night time run of the season, included motobikes on the river footpath.

Wednesday 21 October
Climbing @ the wall
Still tired from the weekend I think. Need to either treat the wall as a 'gym' ie get in get out training venue, or rediscover some psyche for the smeggy hell (might be impossible?)

Useful tip gained today from friend who is massively strong climber, on the inconsistency sometimes experience when training: we're not robots, travelling on a constant incline to massive power, some days we're up, some days we're down - performance changes.

Thursday 22 October
Gym - happy to report that I upped all me weights by at least 5kgs and still crushed.

Friday 23 October
Run before work - difficult to drag myself out into a dark dawn, but it was a great run once I got going. New playlist featuring punk rock. Frustrating MP3 player which does not know the meaning of 'random'. Need a new training player.

Saturday 24 October
Climbing @ the Edge in Sheffield. Led 6 routes, ranging 5 to 6a (or 6b?) So pumped, no stamia for long problems!

Sunday 25 October
Bouldering @ Burbage North & Higger Tor. Did about 7 problems, attempted 10. Fingers wailing, went through 3 tips!

Monday, 19 October 2009

Week 35

Monday 12 October
Climb @ the unit.

Tuesday 13 October
Run, about 4.5 miles?
Nice and steady, couldn've kept on truckin' for a whole while longer.

Wednesday 14 October

Thursday 15 October
Climb @ the wall

Friday 16 October
Gym before work - upped all my weights by 5lbs, still pretty do-able, will stick with this for a few weeks and add another 5lbs.
Side note: so many men at the gym over strain, and instead of using the eqipment to isolate and work certain muscle groups put their shoulders, back etc into bicep curls or something else. You need to lift lighter weights chaps.

Saturday 17 October

Sunday 18 October
Bouldering at the Plantation, Stanage, Derbyshire. Good temps, great friction - until it got too cold for comfort & we had to retreat indoors for cups of tea and cake.

Managed the grit rash my calf heel hooking on the 5+ overhanging traverse right next to the path to the Business boulder (Crozzle boulder?). Repeated a lot of stuff I've done before, but didn't tick anything else new.

Monday, 12 October 2009

Week 34

Monday 5 October
I have freshers flu - or at least the start of it - so I'm 'resting' and not letting myself get 'run down'.

Tuesday 6 October
The freshers flu is in my legs - they are similar to lead.

Wednesday 7 October
This is getting frustrating.

Thursday 8 October
I must be better by now - trying a gym session.

Friday 9 October
Gym before work
Climb after work
Saturday 10 October
Bike ride (short)
Epic tidying session - surely this equals some training points?

Sunday 11 October
Climbing @ Pleasley Vale, hopeless, weak with spaghetti arms. Thundering headache.

Thursday, 8 October 2009

Week 33

Monday 28 September
Gym quick session - 5 min run, basic weights routine, 5 min run

Taking it easy after biking on the weekend, and because this if first time back at the gym after 4 weeks off! How did that happen?!

Tuesday 29 September

Wednesday 30 September
Run 4.5 miles. Stitch after about 3 miles, epic. From running too fast. Recovery after about 1/3 mile, and manage to run all the way home (wee, wee, wee...)

Thursday 1 October
Day off. Olives, jaffa cakes and pineapple juice for dinner.

Friday 2 October

Saturday 3 October
Bouldering at Roche Abbey in Yorkshire. Took a while to get into, but once there, good and knackering.

Sunday 4 October

Monday, 21 September 2009

Week 32

Monday 21 September
Climbing @ the wall - flashed a nice problem, but had very sore fingertips from the weekend

Tuesday 22 September
Went for a 3 mile run (am)

Wednesday 23 September

Thursday 24 September
Went for a 3 mile run (pm)

Friday 25 September
15 mins on tredmill (6mph)

(plus - 12 hr obs shift with NFRS)

Saturday 26 September
Mountain biking at Coed y Brenin - 10km

Sunday 27 September
Mountain biking at Coed y Brenin - 17km

Week 31

Monday 14 September
Run 3 miles

Tuesday 15 September
Ill and inactive

Wednesday 16 September

Thursday 17 September

Friday 18 September
Run 3 miles
(feeling a bit better, dosed up on vitamins)

Saturday 19 September
Bouldering @ the Plantation, Stanage
Ticked a 6a slabby problem on the business boulder, and a couple of other nice ones. Very hot day!

Sunday 20 September
Routes @ Bamford
Some classic VS 4cs. I didn't lead anything though.

Week 30

Holiday - on to NW Scotland.
Including surfing at Sango Sands, Durness, bouldering at Ardmair bay (nr Ullapool), Torridon, Kishorn boulders (nr Applecross) and at Back Bowden and Bowden Doors in Northumberland.

Week 29

Holiday in Ornkey

Tuesday, 25 August 2009

Week 28

Monday 24 August

Tuesday 25 August
Gym before work. Usual workout, including some free weights with the 12kg bar.
Swapped 10 min run for 10 min crosstrainer, because I've still got achey kness.

Wednesday 26 August

Thursday 27 August

Friday 28 August

Saturday 29 August
Travelling to Orkney

Sunday 30 August
More travelling...

Monday, 17 August 2009

Week 27

Monday 17 August
Climb @ the Unit. 2 hours. Trying a Font 6b problem, with a nice throw for a hold on the volume, will have that next time I go down.

Tuesday 18 August

Wednesday 19 August
Run, approx 2 miles. Death on a stick. Hill, massive stitch, overwhelming & unbeatable. Ended up walking, out for 30 minutes. Disaster. Resolve to run daily, short runs, with hills.

Loosing your fitness, so quickly, is so demoralising.

Thursday 20 August
Run (same route as yesterday). Not as bad this morning. 25 minutes (including a stop for a chat with someone I know). Almost got a stitch, but ran the whole way. It's becoming clear : hills kill me. More training required.

Side note: Since I started 'paying attention' to my gait & breathing, running has become harder. I can't not pay attention now though - even though it's hindering rather than helping things.

Friday 21 August
Run. 4 ish miles after work. Felt a little bit like I was going to get a stitch, but my slow plodding along seemed to assuage that. Felt a bit unworked afterwards. Need to push myself harder next time. Knee/shin giving a bit of jip though.

Saturday 22 August
Gym am. Normal routine, except 5 mins on treadmill & cross trainer before and after instead of 10 on treadmill at the start and 10 on crosstrainer at the end.
Also added some extra weights using the 12kg bar, just 2 sets of 8 curls and 2 sets of 8 shoulder presses.

Sunday 23 August
Bike ride, not far, probably 7 miles. Kite flying, deer stalking, pop drinking and lolly ice eating. Fun.

Monday, 10 August 2009

Week 26

Monday 10 August
Climb @ the Unit, first time in ages.
Managed 1 1/2 hours, tried to set myself some trickier problems but find I tend to set myself problems I can flash, rather than problems that challenge me. Gareth set me a problem that took a couple of goes, which was a good balance between challenging & still possible.

Tuesday 11 August
My parents were feeling very neglected, so I sacked off the gym & visited them instead this eve.

Wednesday 12 August
Gym before work. God I could tell I hadn't been for over a week. Disappointing performance with the shoulder press. Must apply myself more, otherwise the improvements I've made so far will be lost.

Thursday 13 August

Friday 14 August
Devon - surfing off Woolacombe for about 4-5 hours today.

Saturday 15 August
Devon - surfing off Woolacombe for about 4-5 hours today.

Sunday 16 August
Devon - surfing off Woolacombe for about 2-3 hours today.

Monday, 3 August 2009

Week 25

Monday 3 August

Tuesday 4 August
Run 4 ish miles

Wednesday 5 August

Thursday 6 August

Friday 7 August

Saturday 8 August

Sunday 9 August
Climbing @ Robin Hoods Stride in Derbyshire.
Quite warm & sunny for a grit day, but super nice non the less. Ticked a couple of 6a problems.

Tuesday, 28 July 2009

Week 24

Monday 27 July

Tuesday 28 July
Climbing @ the Wall, 2 hours. Ticked one of the problems I'd been working on. Took the younger sibling of a friend down with me, and climbed with her all evening. Super workout, we did loads of problems, just easier ones than normal.

Wednesday 29 July
Gym - workout felt too easy, which was a surprise after some time off. Will up the weights & distance next time.

Thursday 30 July
Climbing @ the Wall, 2 hours. Managed to do a nice problem in two parts, but failed to link them which was a shame. Also started on a new project on some little green holdes - need courage to pop for the next hand hold despite the slimy left foot I'm balancing on.

Friday 1 August

Saturday 2 August
Walking down the Strid, near Bolton Abbey. Rainy

Sunday 3 August
Climbing in Yorks, Colsterdate. Great views. Problems felt hard for the grade. Blame the heat.

Monday, 20 July 2009

Week 23

Monday 20 July
Gym before work - no tredmills so had to use the running simulator (which isn't the same as the cross trainer) very strange sensation.

Tuesday 21 July
Run 4 miles before work

Wednesday 22 July

Thursday 23 July
Climb @ the Wall.
Definitley missed my old callouses, finger tips were epicly sore!

Friday 24 July
? have forgotten if I did anything on Friday

Saturday 25 July
Headed to Sutton-on-Sea/Sandilands for a day of surfing, however the swell forgot to turn up, so it was mostly a day of relaxing in the sun.

Sunday 26 July
Climbing @ the Wall, felt better & stronger than on Thursday. Finger tips had recovered slightly! Also did some core & rings exercises.

Tuesday, 14 July 2009

Week 22

Monday 13 July

Tuesday 14 July
Suffering from a bit of malaise recently. Not as much motivation to train, maybe because I know I've passed my ladder lift now, and can relax for a couple of days. Must remind self that it's ok to have 'down time'. Dragged self out of bed early this am to head to the gym, but no clean sports bra available, so will have to see if I can revisit that motivation after work this eve. If not gym then a run - more fun. Better sound track.

Task -
Outline training plan for the rest of the week in red
Record actual training in black

gym pm
Gym @ 5:30

Wednesday 15 July
run am
Ran 3ish miles, early start, big hill, very tired.

Thursday 16 July
Fingerboard session - 1 hour ish
Gym for 30 min session, slightly contracted run time & no free weights

Friday 17 July

Saturday 18 July
Run, 4 miles ish. Not my best time. Must run more - so out of shape.

Sunday 19 July

Thursday, 9 July 2009

Week 21

Monday 6 July

Tuesday 7 July

Wednesday 8 July
Run - 4.3 miles

Thursday 9 July

Friday 10 July

Saturday 11 July

Sunday 12 July
Climbing @ Stanage Plantation. Grit stone ragged my finger tips. Ticked a problem that had been hanging over me for a while, and a nice thuggy overhanging problem with a great flake.

But went home unsatisfied.

Finding it frustrating that my progress isn't faster. I started climbing 'properly' 10 months ago, but I feel set-back by my girly physique. Not nessescarily rational - I am SO much stronger than I was 10 months ago, and I'm comparing myself the some of the biggest beasts in the county, nay country, when it comes to my climbing friends. Focus on the + and don't let one day's frustration & self-doubt take that away.

Monday, 29 June 2009

Week 20

Monday 29 June

Tuesday 30 June

Wednesday 1 July
Run - 4 miles.
First longer run in a while, felt kinda hard in the heat. Satisfying to complete though!

Thursday 2 July

Friday 3 July

Saturday 4 July
Sport climbing @ Harper Hill.
Uncorroborated reports suggest there were a couple of French 6a+ and a 6b completed.
There may have been some hanging about and resting on the rope though.

Sunday 5 July

Friday, 26 June 2009

Week 19

Monday 22 June
off work sick

Tuesday 23 June
still too off-colour to do anything

Wednesday 24 June
still not right

Thursday 25 June
5x5 12kg curls and presses
*Joined the gym*

Friday 26 June
Gym induction/programme:
  • 10 mins walking 2.5mpg
  • 10 mins running 6 mph
  • 3x8 shoulder press (30 pounds?)
  • 3x10 ab curl (65 pounds?)
  • 3x8 bicep curl (30 pounds?)
  • 3x8 press w/ shoulder rotation (6kg each arm)
  • 3x8 chest press (weight?)
  • 10 mins crosstrainer warm down

Saturday 27 June
Gym (programme as above)
Cycle 4 miles
Walk 5 miles+

Sunday 28 June
@ Horborough Rocks, couple of solos, boudler problems & a few routes
@ Intake Quarry, second 1 sport route, failed to second 2 add sport routes (too tired!)
Cycle approx 3-4 miles

Week 18

Monday 15 June
Run - can't remember how far

Tuesday 16 June
Climbing @ the wall - 2 hours
Intervals training run, 2-3 miles

Wednesday 17 June

Thursday 18 June
Climbing @ the wall - 2 hours ish (flashed 5b UK)

Friday 19 June
Dancing the night away...

Saturday 20 June

Sunday 21 June

(? forgotten what I did this week really)

Monday, 8 June 2009

Week 17

Monday 8 June
4 mile run. Was meant to be a short run to ease myself back in after a week off.
Confirmed the need for running socks though - best to beat blisters.
Weird sharp pain in left shoulder.

20 sit ups (bench)
20 dorsal raises (fit ball)

Tuesday 9 June
20 sit ups (foot under door hook thing)
20 crunches
2 reps of 5 bicep curls (16kg)
2 reps of 4 shoulder presses (16kg)
plank (epic fail at the...)
press ups (weak effort, felt hard today)
some pull ups.

Wednesday 10 June
4.5 mile run - completed in under 30 minutes!

Thursday 11 June

Friday 12 June

Drove to Pembrokshire

Saturday 13 June

Day of surfing.

Sunday 14 June
Day of surfing.

Wednesday, 3 June 2009

Week 16

Monday 1 June
Bleep test (test conditions) 8.6

Tuesday 2 June
Physical tests for Cornwall C FB

Wednesday 3 June

Thursday 4 June

Friday 5 June

Saturday 6 June

Sunday 7 June
Climbing @ the Wall, 3 hours.

Tuesday, 26 May 2009

Week 15

Monday 25 May
Climbing @ Pleasley Vale 2-3 hours

3 sets of 5 bicep curls 16kg
3 sets of shoulder presses 16 kg
2 sets of 10 fit ball dorsal raises, 1 set of 15
3 sets of 10 fit ball crunches
3 sets of 20 crunch twists
3 sets of 10 press ups (on knees)
2 sets of resistance leg raises, to fatigue
(Lie on your back with your partner stood at your shoulders. Holding onto your partners ankles lift you legs striahgt into the air, keeping them straight. Your partner then firmly pushes your legs back down to the ground, to the side etc, in a random pattern)
10 side leg raises
(Lie on your back with your arms out to the side like a cross. Lift your legs into the air keeping them straight. Lower your legs to the left, keeping them at right angles to your body, keeping your shoulders on the floor. Raise, Repeat on the right. Repeat.)
2 fingertip pull ups on the Beastmaker

*chest cramp*

Tuesday 26 May
bleep test (level 8.4)
run - 3 miles
pull ups

Wednesday 27 May
weights and core

Thursday 28 May

Friday 29 May
Saturday 30 May
Sunday 31 May
3 mile run, max speed uphill. Internvals between lamposts for 1+ mile (jog/sprint)

Monday, 18 May 2009

Week 14

Monday 18 May
Climbing @ the wall. Routes. Led 5b (English)

Tuesday 19 May
Circuits class, hard this week! Last one til September :(

Wednesday 20 May

Thursday 21 May
Run 3.5 miles.

Friday 22 May

Saturday 23 May
Wii Fit :)

Sunday 24 May
Bleep test - level 8
Run afterwards, 3 ish miles?

Tuesday, 12 May 2009

Week 13

Monday 11 May
Climbing @ the wall, about 8 problems flashed, another 4-5 tried so not exactly maximum effort! Felt quite tired and arms getting pumped fairly easily.

Also did some pull ups on the rings (again arms felt beasted) and 20 crunches, 20 dorsal raises over the block.

Tuesday 12 May
35 sit ups before breakfast.
Circuits class @ lunchtime, approx 30 mins? Loved it. Wasted me.

Wednesday 13 May
Still wasted from circuits. That really was maximum effort. Will be back next week.

Thursday 14 May
Run 3 miles.
Weights, 16kg (8kg each arm) 5 reps of 5 curls and shoulder presses.
Pull ups, 2 at a time, 3 reps.

Friday 15 May
Run 4/4.5 miles
Weights, 16kg (8kg each arm) 5 reps of 5 curls and shoulder presses.
Pull ups, 2 at a time, 3 reps.

Saturday 16 May

Sunday 17 May
Two routes at Stanage, in the rain. Scary & soaking.

Tuesday, 5 May 2009

Week 12

Monday 4 May
Driving back from Northumberland.

Tuesday 5 May
Climbing wall 2+ hours.

Wednesday 6 May

Thursday 7 May
Run 4.5 miles
Press ups (training! since I'm categorically hopeless at these)
Weights (8kg, 5 reps of 5 bicep curls and shoulder presses, per arm)

Friday 8 May
Driving down to Cornwall

Saturday 9 May
Sunday 10 May

Tuesday, 28 April 2009

Week 11

Monday 27 April
Wii fit. Apparently my 'Wii Fit age' is 37. This is not good news, I'm 26. Will have another go and report back on (hopefully) drastic age loss.

Tuesday 28 April
Climbing wall 2 1/2 hours

Wednesday 29 April
Climbing @ Trent Bridge. Very fingery.
Ran down (1 mile) climber for about 1/2 hour before everyone decamped to pub.
1 pint, ran home.

Thursday 30 April

Friday 1 May
Drove up to Northumberland

Saturday 2 May
Routing at Bowden doors - 5 routes, VS-HVS.
Bouldering at Back Bowden Doors - got first 6a outside. Traverse, flashed.

Sunday 3 May
Kyloe Crag, routing. 4 routes HS-HVS. Led a S.
Kyloe in the woods, messed about on a 6b undercling traverse, Funs, but too battered to do anything.

Week 10

Torridon for the week.
  • Two Munros
  • Some bouldering (engage the fingertips)
  • More walking
  • A bit of slacklining (including an 'almost' turn)
  • 4 mile run (crush!)
  • Tendon pain in the left knee
  • Epic travelling
  • Some overeating
  • A lot of tiredness.

Thursday, 16 April 2009

Week 9

Monday 13 April
Slacklining for a couple of hours with V&M

Tuesday 14 April
Run, 3.5 miles. Flipping stitch again. Even after I made a special effort to concentrate on breathing, and trying to run sower. I think they may be linked to dehydration?

Wednesday 15 April
Climb down the Unit, 2-2.5 hours. 1/2 time spent on 15o, other half at 30o. Managed to do several warm ups on the 30o angle. Callouses hurt from the holds though. Endurance core workout. Amazingly no stomach muscle ache the day afterwards.

Thursday 16 April

Friday 17 April
Run: 3.5/4 miles. Made sure I ran slower this time, which paid off. Easily cruised the distance, no stitches or breathlessness - had more 'go' left at the end of the run (shame I had jobs to do so couldn't really push it). Pretty pleased with that.

Saturday 18 April

Sunday 19 April

Monday, 6 April 2009

Week 8

Monday 6 April
Climbing wall, 2 hours. Knackered with sore fingers. Didn't get much done - no new ticks. Did some lock off and off set pull up training on the rings.

Tuesday 7 April
3.5 mile run after work. Still knackered.

Wednesday 8 April
Climbing @ the unit. 2.5 hours. Lock off and pull through practice. Exclusive use of tiny footholds. Felt strong!

Thursday 9 April

Friday 10 April
Climbing @ the wall, 3 hours ish. Nothing particular to report.

Saturday 11 April

Sunday 12 April
3.5 mile run. Epic stitch - I hate getting stitches.

Monday, 30 March 2009

Week 7

Monday 30 March
Climbing @ the wall. 2 1/2 hours
Also did some rings - pull ups, off set pull ups, lock offs.

Tuesday 31 March
3 mile run after work in new trainers. Very happy with them. Up and Running, Nottingham get my vote for service.
Came home and did some pull up training - 3 sets of 5 reps assisted pull ups (both grips).
3 sets of 2 reps pull ups

Wednesday 1 April
Eye appointment - not sure if I'll be able to climb

Thursday 2 April
3.5 mile run after work. Possibly ran a bit too fast. Stitch 3/4 way round. Felt good though.
40 push ups (sets of 10)
50 sit ups (sets of 10)

Friday 3 April

Saturday 4 April
Boudlering @ Brimham Rocks in Yorksshire. Fairly hungover (a habit I need to break out of) but felt strong. Nearly latched a 5+ I was trying - frustrated I didn't just lob for the top.

Sunday 5 April
Slacklining in Roundhay Park. 5 steps! Success!

Thursday, 26 March 2009

Week 6

Monday 23 March

no climbing or running - sore fingers from the weekend, sore feet from the weekend.

Tuesday 24 March

some pull ups - easily doing reps of 2 pull ups unassisted now :) Did rep of 3 today.

Wednesday 25 March


Thursday 26 March

Friday 27 March
climbing @ the Unit. Practicing lock offs and reach throughs. Got some new problems using the wooden holds.

Saturday 28 March
cycled around, into town etc.

Sunday 29 March
routes @ High Ned end of Stanage. First time I've actually roped up at that crag! Did some nice VS, HS and HVS's. Frustrated when I fell off the crux on a HVS 5b. Should've done that easily. Need to improve my route reading skills.

Tuesday, 17 March 2009

Week 5

Monday 16th March

Climbing @ the wall - 2 1/2 hours , success on the stepped overhang with the yellow & blacks. Too tired after that to get the pink and black though - much brushing required of the smeggy holds. Also ticked the green crimpy problem on the slab (with inclusion of ledge and 1 extra hold that some might have said was out...)

Tuesday 17th March

5 mile run - excellent, playlist was perfect. Felt super psyched.
Only issue is with my trainers. Even with tape on the arches of my feet the insoles are still rubbing and causing blisters. Need to investigate some new trainers if am going to up my mileage.

Wednesday 18th March

Pull ups training:
6 reps of 5 assisted pull ups - 3 of each grip
got quite bored...

Thursday 19th March

5 mile run (a treat saved from yesterday)
Decided to do it without the insoles in because had run out of foot tape - not going to do that again. Knees feeling ok now, but drastically reduced my technique/style. Felt like I was lumbering along.

Did some core and push ups while neighbours was on ;)

Friday 20th March


Saturday 21st March

Climbing @ Burbage South. Very unfulfilling. Didn't get any of the (harder) problems I tried on the sheep or the tank. Went through 1 tip and was critical with 4 others. Left feeling shitty.

Sunday 22nd March

Went for a run, slightly longer than the usual. Stupid new taping system didn't work (note to self, revert to old system).
Did some pull up training:
* 3 sets of 2 pull ups unassisted.
* 6 sets of 5 pull ups assisted (both grips).

Monday, 16 March 2009

Week 4

Tried to climb at the unit, was far too tired still from Font

Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday
were a write off!

Ran 5 miles

Ramshaw, did 2 problems. Hopeless, too hung over.

Monday, 9 March 2009

Week 3

Fontainbleau trip

Saturday - Epic travelling
Sunday - Drei Zinnen and Canche aux Merciers
Monday - Roche aux Sabots, Cul de Chien and Roche aux Oiseaux
Tuesday - Canche aux Merciers (ticked 5c with tape on 7/8 fingers - thumbs OK)
Wednesday - Rainy, rest day. Went for a walk. Screaming elbow tendonitis.
Thursday - 95.2
Friday - Bas Cuvier and Canche aux Merciers
Saturday - Epic travelling!
Sunday - Back at home. 6 sets if 5 pull ups, 3 mile run

Monday, 23 February 2009

Week 2

Monday 23 Feb

Training might be a bit light this week (see prev post re concussion).
Will be going to be early tonight after overdoing it a bit on the booze this weekend.

Tuesday 24 Feb

Back on track today, decided not to go down the wall, but to turn the house into a home gym instead.
5 x reps of 20 sit ups
4 x reps of 10 push ups (something I have to work on, I'm crap at these)
4/5? x reps of 20 bicep curls with 16kg weights
4/5? x reps of 20 shoulder presses with 16kg weights
some (token) leg lifts
some dorsal raises

Also set up the pulley so I can train assisted pull ups - managed 3 with some cobbled together weights found strewn throughnout the house. Not sure how much they weighed in at in the end...
Also did a few reps of single pull ups, both grips.

Sound track?
Police interceptors
Traffic Cops
Real Rescues

Tuesday, 17 February 2009

Week 1

Monday 16 Feb

Ran 1 mile to work
Ran 1.5 miles home

Climb @ Unit for 2 hours
first time on the small wooden crimps - was surprised I made it off the ground!

Tuesday 17 Feb

Ran 4 miles
Had achey thighs from running on Monday and not stretching. Stupid arch raising insoles rubbed under my arch and meant that I had to walk the last 1/2 mile. Need some new trainers.

Core execrises & pull ups
Half hearted attempt - probably not worth my bothering.

Wednesday 18 Feb

Climbing wall session - 3 hours.
Got another move on my problem on the 45o in the basement, and flashed some nice problems that were put up for the uni comp.
Frustatingly didn't manage the organge problem on the arch (not enough lock off strength) nor the yellow on the slab (holding the volume open handed just seems to cane my wrist)

Thursday 19 Feb


Friday 20 Feb

Went for a run after work - excruciating stitch. Hopelessly unfit feeling. Not good. Struggled about 1 mile before going home! Did some core (sit ups, dishes etc)

Saturday 21 Feb

Couple of hours climbing at Shipley Glen in Leeds. Some nice easy stuff. Went through two tips in my exhuberance. Also sporting grazed legs and arms.

Sunday 22 Feb

Managed to give myself concussion. Nurses advice? No stenuous exercise for 2-3 days.